Mustard-Crusted Bass

We had friends over for Sunday lunch yesterday, and this was one of the many things I made. Now that the French gastronomic meal has UNESCO protected status and all, I feel the pressure has ramped up to produce the proper meal in its many courses. So we had gougères with the aperitif, then salad, then this fish and a quinoa pilaf, then cheese, then an apple crumble of sorts, then coffee and macarons. Our friends came at 12:30 and left at 5. That's a civilization worthy of protection, I guess...

Instead of buying frozen fish fillets, which I usually do because I'm a squeamish frightened fish buyer, I bought whole fish at the market, which the friendly guys cleaned and gutted for me. I also had them cut the heads and tails. They gave me the look, "OK, weird foreign lady." But I hate having my food look at me. So sue me.

This recipe, which I've adapted for a bit more simplicity, is from the August 2005 issue of Bon Appétit. I'm not sure why it didn't make it onto the Epicurious site--it's very good: flavorful and light. Which is good if you're doing an all-afternoon meal.

Mustard-Crusted Bass with Tomato Sauce

2 T. olive oil

2 T. butter

4 cloves garlic

1 branch thyme

Salt, pepper

2 lbs. tomatoes (get the tastiest you can find), cut into cubes

1 basket cherry/grape tomatoes, halved

1/3 c. Dijon mustard

1/3 c. whole-grain mustard

1 t. hot pepper sauce (I used Sriracha)

1-2 T. chopped fresh thyme

2 c. panko breadcrumbs (I used regular dry breadcrumbs because I couldn't find panko anywhere...)

4 striped bass fillets (or whatever bass-like fish is considered sustainable in your area)

Canola or other neutral oil

In a large saucepan or skillet, heat the butter and olive oil until the butter is melted and no longer foamy. Add the garlic and heat it until it sizzles a bit. Throw in the thyme and some salt and pepper, and then the cubed big tomatoes (save the little tomatoes for later). Let simmer until the tomatoes have broken down and the sauce has thickened--mine took at least half an hour. Throw in the cherry tomatoes when you're ready to cook the fish.

For the fish, get out two pie plates: put the mustards, hot pepper sauce, and thyme in one; put the panko in the other. Get out a skillet (nonstick is probably best) and heat some oil in it--enough to cover the bottom of the pan generously. Dip the fish in the mustard--you may need to smear it on with your hands or with a rubber scraper--and then in the breadcrumbs. Fry the fish until the outside is crisp and the fish is just opaque in the center--about 3 minutes per side.

To serve, spoon some tomato sauce on a plate and top it with a fish filet. Enjoy and get ready for the cheese.